🔗 Share this article All Chef Ought to Study Here’: Humble Turkish Dining Spot Secures Fourth on List of London’s Best Dining Destinations. When assembling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London. A Shocking Recognition This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors completely astonished. “I’m utterly surprised,” says a family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small place earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list. The Character of Simplicity The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner. The Namesake Dish: Tantuni In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture. The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside. It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony. Beyond the Basic Tantuni Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”. For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced taste. Surpassing the Stars Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations. Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount. A Philosophy of Warmth The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner. “I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.” This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”. A Path of Dedication Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son. Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication. “My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says. A Achievement for the People The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.